This makes more sense to me than calling 3 an aggressive half crimp or something, because it's the hyperextension that creates the stress on the pulleys and thus risk for finger injury. I also trained myself a while back to use pretty much exclusively open-hand and half-crimp grips, even on small holds. Climbers who are just starting to learn crimp climbing often use this handhold position because it has the additional strength from your thumbs. I personally think that the full crimp is a skill or tool that is used, so just hanging on a hangboard isn't going to teach you how to use it. Wire crimping can be a tricky process for DIY electricians as it consists of many steps. Is full crimping on every hold ok in general if you are super light (my thought is no but then again in the example of the 100 lbs guy, will he get an injury soon?)? I'm assuming you have to stimulate your index finger joints (i. Left: Closed crimp. Apr 8, 2016 · Remember too that taper crimp is for the benefit of the barrel; changing bullets does not change the taper crimp setting. The half crimp is a lot closer to the full crimp morphologically so that makes sense I can lock off way deeper. As discussed in chapter 4, full crimping is mechanically stronger than open-handing or half crimping when on small holds.

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